Matthew Jukes reviews the Stoan and Lagrein from Cantina Tramin in MoneyWeek:
First, the facts to set the scene for this remarkable wine. Cantina Tramin was founded in 1898 and it has 310 member winegrowers who stick rigidly to its carefully-tuned vine-growing mantra. With 260 hectares of vineyards, situated at between 250-850m altitude, this fruit resource here is nothing short of incredible. In 2011, this remarkable cooperative totted up its 20th Tre Bicchieri award in the Gambero Rosso which means that this is one of Italy’s most elite wineries despite it being a name that only the most committed of Italian wine lovers would have come across over here.
Most famous for its crystalline white wines, in particular the extraordinary Stoan, a mind-expanding Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer blend, I have picked a shockingly pure Lagrein this week, which will be sure to cement this winery’s skills in your taste memory for ever more. Simply fermented in steel tanks and cement vats and then given the briefest time in a variety of oak barrels to add a sprinkling of spicy seasoning, what I adore about this wine is the accuracy and richness of flavour found here. There is every single thing I crave about the fascinating and memorable Lagrein grape in this glass. With only 12.5% alcohol on board and a massive amount of slick liquorice and blackberry fruit, I know that you will fall under this wine’s spell in just one sip.